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These tents use Sunforger Marine Boatshrunk Canvas, which is
mildew, water, and fire-resistant. The canvas comes in rolls
of 100 or so yards, each, and is about 58" wide. For most seams,
use nylon heavyweight upholstery thread. This design produces
a tent that's around 12' square, 5' high at the shoulder, and
8' high at the peak.
Cut three panels 12'2" long, (Roof) Total 123' Two Panels 12'2" long (Flaps) or 43 Yards One Panel 12'6" long (Gables) Four Panels 14'long (Walls)Lay out the gable peices as shown, with right-triangles the sides of which are 36",72" and 80.5", with 1" flaps sticking out beyond that on all three sides. This will leave a 15" strip of fabric left over. Cut two 7" strips of that off lengthwise, discard the selvage edge. Lay out four 11" wide strips, and two 7" wide strips for the flaps. The four 11" flaps are mudflaps, the 7" strips are dagging. Sew the three roof-panels together, lengthwise, with a 1" seam, that you will then roll-over. Make sure that the seams stand up when the is right side out, and roll away from each other. (see diagram) Sew the short sides of the gable-bits together, using the flaps as seam allowance. DO not roll this seam. Pin the point of the gables to the center-edge of the center roof-panel. The pin all of the top edge of the gables along the cut edges of the roof. Sew the gables in place. Use a straight-edge or chalk-line to make a line from the points of the gables along the shoulders of the roof. Make another line 1" farther out, and trim the excess. This 1" flap continues the 1" flap at the bottom of the gables around the other two sides of the tent. Take the 7" dagging strips, and serge both long edges. Sew them all along the 1" flap, so that you have 6" dags, and a 1" flap sticking into the tent along the seam. Sew the vertical 6" seams where the dagging meets in the corners, also. With Whatever scrap canvas you have left over, make 10 8" square patches. Fold these in half diagonally, and sew them shut, and serge them. Sew one of these into each end of the peak, and into each corner, as shown, and sew the remaining four equidistant (about every 4') along the low shoulders, as shown. Set Grommets in these about 1" from the edges of the tent. This is where the spikes on the tent-poles go, Starting in the center of each wall, place grommets through BOTH of the 1" flaps where the dagging is attached, inside. This is what the wall-sections hang from. Space these grommets every 16" along the walls. Fold 1" of fabric over some heavy twine, along the top edge of each wall-segment, and sew it in place. Starting in the center, place grommets every 16" along this, to match those in the roof. Place one extra grommet at each end. At the BOTTOM edge, opposite these grommets, trim one of the 11" wide mud-flaps to exactly 12', and sew this using a long stich to the bottom edge of the wall, with as small a seam-allowance as you can comfortable manage. Serge or roll-over the cut ends of each wall section. Side Poles: Get three 6' 2x6s, Cut them with a table saw into 1.5" square poles, and use the saw, a knife, or a router to chamfer the corners. CUt them to whatever height the walls ended up being, from the mud-flap seam to the top of the folded over grommet-edge. (This should be roughly 56") You should end up with 1 extra pole. This is good, because if you didn't get really good lumber, at least one of your poles will be severely twisted.. Throw away the worst one. Get an 8' 2x6, and cut three longer poles, for the gable-ands. Make them 36" longer than the side-poles. (About 7'8") Drill 1/4" holes down into the ends of each pole. Drive a 6" metal rod into these holes with a mallet, being careful not to split the pole. You may want to use epoxy. A ridgepole isn't absolutely necessary, but it makes the tent look better. Get a 12' 2x4, and cut it down to 11'9". Get Some metal 1/8th in. strap-iron, 1/2" x 20", cut it in half, and drill 3/8" holes starting at one end, at 3/4", 3", 6" and 9". Make right-angle bends at 1.5", and the other way at 5". Grind the corners smooth. Mount one of the hangers at each end of the ridgepole. When you set the tent up, you may find you have to shorten the ridgepole to make it fit. Get a bunch of 2" rebar, and bend them over into candy canes using long hunks of black-pipe as levers. These make robust tent-stakes. You'll need at least 10 of these, many people prefer 14. I like 1/4" woven nylon for tent-ropes. Many people don't because it's very elastic, and stretches in the weather. Whatever you use, 10' of rope with a loop at one end, and a toggle at the other works well for the side-ropes, and a 15' rope for each end of the ridgepole. |